L
ong before Cartier became the jeweller of kings, movie stars and socialites, many of the precious stones that would define its most celebrated creations came from India.
That rich connection is on full display in CARTIER, the National Gallery of Victoria’s 2026 Winter Masterpieces exhibition, which opens on June 12 and runs until October 26.
Unveiled to media today, the exhibition features nearly 400 extraordinary jewels, timepieces and precious objects, alongside original design drawings, sketchbooks, photographs and archival material. Direct from London’s Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A), the expanded Melbourne presentation is the largest exhibition ever staged in Australia on the famed jewellery house and includes almost 300 works never before seen in the country.
For Indian audiences, the exhibition offers a fascinating reminder of the role India played in shaping Cartier’s history.
Many of the world’s earliest diamonds came from the legendary Golconda mines. Some of the most famous stones, including the Hope Diamond, passed through Cartier’s hands, helping establish the maison’s reputation as one of the world’s premier jewellers.
India’s influence extended far beyond gemstones. During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the country became a lasting source of inspiration for Cartier designers. The exhibition shows how Jacques Cartier’s travels to India inspired some of the house’s most recognisable creations.
Among them are the iconic Tutti Frutti jewels, characterised by carved emerald, ruby and sapphire leaves set among diamonds. The style drew heavily on Indian jewellery traditions, where carved gemstones and the pairing of red rubies with green emeralds were highly prized. Cartier added blue sapphires to the combination, creating a bold new aesthetic that became one of the house’s signatures.
The exhibition also highlights Cartier’s close relationship with India’s princely rulers.
Among the archival treasures on display is a photograph of Rani Sita Devi of Kapurthala wearing Cartier jewels for British Vogue in 1935, captured by celebrated photographer Cecil Beaton. Historic advertisements featuring jewels created by Cartier Paris for the Maharaja of Patiala further illustrate the house’s connection with Indian royalty.
One of the exhibition’s most compelling stories centres on Maharaja Bhupinder Singh of Patiala. In 1925, he commissioned Cartier to redesign the Patiala royal treasury using modern platinum settings. The commission became one of the largest in Cartier’s history.
The centrepiece was the legendary Patiala Necklace, featuring nearly 3,000 diamonds and precious gemstones, including the famous De Beers diamond. A photograph of Maharaja Yadavindra Singh, Bhupinder Singh’s son and successor, wearing the spectacular necklace is included in the exhibition.
Another Indian-inspired highlight is a magnificent Tutti Frutti necklace commissioned in 1936 by Parisian socialite Daisy Fellowes. Considered one of the finest examples of the style ever created, it demonstrates how Indian motifs and gemstone carving techniques captivated European high society.
Beyond India, the exhibition charts Cartier’s rise from a Paris family business founded in 1847 to the world’s first internationally recognised jewellery maison. Under brothers Louis, Pierre and Jacques Cartier, the company established branches in Paris, London and New York and built a clientele that included royalty, aristocrats, celebrities and industrialists.
Visitors will encounter creations worn by Elizabeth Taylor, Grace Kelly, Princess Margaret, Wallis Simpson, Rihanna and Andy Warhol, alongside jewels commissioned by the Maharaja of Patiala and the Begum Aga Khan III.
One of the exhibition’s showstoppers is a gallery featuring more than 30 tiaras, including 24 displayed together in a dazzling finale. Highlights include the 1902 Scroll Tiara, worn by Lady Clementine Churchill at Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation and later by Rihanna for the cover of W magazine.
Australian visitors are not forgotten. The exhibition features jewellery owned by Dame Nellie Melba, one of Cartier’s earliest international clients, as well as a number of creations showcasing Australian opals, including a striking Art Deco bracelet featuring five black opals believed to have come from Lightning Ridge.
These are just a few of the remarkable stories and objects awaiting visitors.
Speaking at the media preview, NGV Director Tony Ellwood said, “This exhibition tells the story of how they transformed their grandfather’s jewellery business into one of the most prestigious international
Lead curator Helen Molesworth from the V&A described Cartier as one of the world’s most influential jewellery houses, noting that the exhibition explores how original design, exceptional craftsmanship and international ambition turned the Parisian family business into a global phenomenon.
CARTIER runs at NGV International, Melbourne, from June 12 to October 26, 2026. For more details, click here
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