In a city full of Thai restaurants, LadyBoy in Richmond stands out, not just for its vibrant atmosphere and inventive cocktails, but for the story behind it. Co-owned by Indian-born Manpreet Singh and his Thai wife, Sumalee Sae-tang, the restaurant brings together their two cultures and a shared love of food. The couple met while studying cooking in Melbourne in 2004 and eventually went into hospitality together. And while Manpreet’s Indian heritage might raise an eyebrow or two at a Thai restaurant, the cooking here stays authentically and proudly Thai, a tribute to Sumalee’s roots and their joint culinary journey.
Step inside and the mood is immediately playful. A giant mural overlooks the dining room, with neon lights and Thai parasols adding colour. Out the back is an open courtyard that fills up in summer with groups of friends and diners with their dogs. There’s a cocktail bar up front, a beer garden out back and an easy buzz throughout.
The cocktail menu deserves attention. We started with the Polaroid — vodka, Campari, vanilla, passionfruit, lemon and pineapple — which arrived with a Polaroid photo of us to take home. It was bright, tangy and very easy to drink. The Phuket Bucket, with spiced rum, citrus, pandan syrup, ginger ale and a burning cinnamon stick, brought a little theatre to the table along with a good balance of spice and sweetness.
The Old Thailand, made with Maker’s Mark bourbon, Hennessy, Cherry Heering, honey, orange bitters and cinnamon smoke, was richer and stronger, while the White Gold — Malpaso Pisco, lemon liqueur, elderflower, fresh lime, house-made lime meringue and edible gold — was easily the prettiest of the lot. Citrusy and light, it tasted as good as it looked.
Starters set the bar high. Salt and pepper squid came with fresh herbs, chilli, sweet soy and ginger. It was lightly crisp, fresh and full of flavour. Duck and ginger dumplings, one of the restaurant’s bestsellers, came with orange chilli jam oil. Rich and savoury, they disappeared quickly.
The Thai Ceviche was a revelation. Salmon, green nam jim, coconut foam and a crispy seaweed cracker came together in a dish that was bright, zesty and utterly delicious — a modern Thai take on a classic that worked beautifully.
For mains, the twice-cooked pork belly came with Thai basil, capsicum, snake beans, Chinese broccoli, chilli and spiced crackling. The pork was tender, the crackling crisp and the sauce had enough heat without overwhelming the dish.
The slow-braised lamb shank massaman was hearty and comforting, with tender lamb, potato and cashews in a rich curry. The day’s special, a Thai green chicken curry, was creamy and fragrant with a gentle lingering heat.
For mains, the twice-cooked pork belly came with Thai basil, capsicum, snake beans, Chinese broccoli, chilli and spiced crackling. The pork was tender, the crackling crisp and the sauce had enough heat without overwhelming the dish. The slow-braised lamb shank massaman was hearty and comforting, with tender lamb, potato and cashews in a rich curry. The day’s special, a Thai green chicken curry, was creamy and fragrant with a gentle lingering heat.
There is also something new on the way. LadyBoy is about to launch Beyond Bangkok — The Regional Passport Series, which will explore Thai food beyond the dishes most Australians already know. Every two months, the restaurant will focus on a different region of Thailand, offering a regional snack, hero dish, dessert and cocktail, alongside a passport-style menu explaining the food and culture behind them.
Leading the kitchen is new Head Chef Gun, who was born in Hat Yai in southern Thailand and has worked at Le Spinaker in France, Blackitch Artisan Kitchen in Chiang Mai and Lucy Liu in Melbourne. The series will draw on that experience to introduce diners to regional Thai dishes that rarely appear on Melbourne menus.
LadyBoy is more than just a Thai restaurant. It’s a celebration of culture, love and culinary craftsmanship. The food is excellent, the cocktails are inventive and the atmosphere is genuinely fun. But what sets it apart is the story — an Indian man and his Thai wife, building something beautiful together, one dish at a time.
Ladyboy Dining & Bar
Richmond, Melbourne
Cocktails: $24–$26
Starters: $16–$18
Mains: $27–$37
Beyond Bangkok — The Regional Passport Series launches soon. Book ahead.
Support Independent Community Journalism
Dear Reader,The Indian Sun exists for one reason: to tell stories that might otherwise go unheard.
We report on local councils, state politics, small businesses and cultural festivals. We focus on the Indian diaspora and the wider multicultural community with care, balance and accountability. We publish in print and online, send regular newsletters and produce video content. We also run media training programs to help community organisations share their own stories.
We operate independently.
Community journalism does not have the backing of large media corporations. Advertising revenue fluctuates. Platform algorithms change. Costs continue to rise. Yet the need for credible, grounded reporting in a multicultural Australia has never been greater.
When you support The Indian Sun, you support:
• Independent reporting on issues affecting migrant communities
• Coverage of local and state decisions that shape daily life
• A platform for small businesses and community groups
• Media training that builds skills within the community
• Journalism accountable to readers
We cannot cover everything, but we work to cover what matters.
If you value thoughtful reporting that reflects Australia’s diversity, we invite you to contribute. Every donation helps us maintain the quality and consistency of our work.
Please consider making a contribution today.
Thank you for your support.
The Indian Sun Team
