There is a playful curiosity about Dhaaba by Aangan. The colourful restaurant replicating a typical Indian dhaba, the ubiquitous eatery on Indian highways, is chic. Dhaaba by Aangan has pulled off the concept well. It is back with ‘josh’ (warmth and renewed vigour) in a bid to also overcome one of the pandemic’s tragedies—social exclusion!
Dhaaba by Aangan located at Keilor is the brainchild of Sumit Malhotra, chef and a successful entrepreneur. After a COVID hiatus and a franchise that he leased and eventually bought out, Dhaba re-opened last week promising a unique experience.
This is the first time a dhaba has found its place in Melbourne. Colourful, quirky and fun, Dhaaba aims to provide a destination experience for Melburnians who want to immerse themselves in an India-like atmosphere. A welcome change.
As you enter, the design aesthetics really stand out. From the rustic chandeliers, charpoys (traditiona Indian beds), pickle jars, film posters, tyres, lamps to the colourful streamers adorned on the walls and elsewhere.
Indian dhabas originally catered to truck drivers and others passing through the highways till they became a trend too for urban settlers. Dhaaba By Aangan attempts to tell the trucker’s story through its food and other aspects. One such aspect is the humorous signs every tail of a truck in India displays. So you will see a hilarious compilation such as “Use Dipper at Night”, “Horn Please”, “buri nazar wale tera muh kaala” (you with the evil eye, may your face be black).
All the elements are held together with the undeniably catchy filmy numbers playing in the background.
Himashi Shaw, who runs Foodie Trails, walking and food experiences designed to share stories and flavours from different regions, says Dhaaba’s concept is unique, in that it is trying to connect people in a multicultural way, thoughtful way.
Malhotra built himself on the virtuosity of Indian food starting the trailblazing chains of Aangan restaurants. The first Aangan restaurant in Footscray opened in 2004. Today, he proudly runs ten of them.
With Dhaaba, he is cleverly taking the Indian food experience a notch higher.
“The menu here is typical Punjabi dhaba food,” says Malhotra. “You won’t get rajma, kadi chawal, saag, makki di roti or kukad da kukard (home style chicken curry) anywhere. It is nothing fancy, but the simplicity with its balance of flavour is the USP here. The price is also reasonable.
Malhotra explains the reason why dhaba food finds a place in our heart is because it involves an altogether different kind of cooking. “It is a rustic kind of cooking. We don’t use blenders, everything is done manually and freshly made. Lastly the main step is the tadka or tempering which is done just before serving.”
Indeed, the dal, kukad da kukard, kadi are a good choice here. Other standouts are the entrees such as golguppa (also known by other names in India), which is a crispy puffed ball filled with smashed potato, sweet tamarind sauce, yoghurt. At Dhaaba by Aangan, it comes full throttle in a small glass packed with flavours. The kebabs are also more indulgent than they are.
Bottle shops in India are called thekas. Dhaaba’s bar is aptly called Theka, and also serves as a Fruit Juice Corner and Chilled Beer Shop. Try the Tapola cocktail—with a dash of vodka and mohito that comes in a small LPG cylinder look-alike glass.
To complete the nostalgia, there is the cutting chai, which means half glass of tea. The cutting chai in India is found everywhere and is something just enough to refresh you. It is served in special sized glasses.
Dessert in Dhaaba is the kulfi and falooda, cold and rich with unique flavours. You have a counter where you can see them being pulled out for you. No possible reason to abstain. As a patron queuing up for it says, “It’s all about enjoying good food and having fun.”
Dhaaba by Aangan at Calder Highway, Kielor, certainly has an identity—quite like an enduring attraction. Aaja aaja dhaabe te aaja!
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