During the Christmas holidays of 2024, we had the opportunity to explore the Kutch region in Gujarat, India, as part of our travel itinerary.
Kutch is a vast, arid district renowned for its unique landscapes, rich culture, and vibrant handicrafts. It is home to the Great Rann of Kutch, a seasonal salt marsh that transforms into a stunning white desert, attracting tourists during the annual Rann Utsav. The region is also famous for its traditional Kutchi embroidery, bandhani textiles, and intricate Rogan art.
Kutch is inhabited by diverse communities, including nomads and artisans, who have preserved centuries-old traditions. Despite its harsh climate, the region boasts significant historical sites, such as Dholavira, a prominent Indus Valley Civilisation site, along with numerous forts and temples.
After an overnight train journey from Vadodara, we arrived in Bhuj and made it our headquarters for the trip. Our journey was organised by Rural Pleasure Journeys, a travel company dedicated to offering meaningful travel experiences. The small group of friendly tourists from India and the USA was led by the company’s founder, Chirag Munjani, an excellent guide, throughout the trip. Rural Pleasure Journeys collaborates with local tribes and villagers, promoting their skills, art, and handicrafts while providing visitors with an authentic experience of the local culture, lifestyle, and wildlife.
Visiting Dholavira was a remarkable experience. Having read about the Indus Valley Civilisation in school, witnessing the archaeological site firsthand was awe-inspiring. Dating back to around 3000 BCE, Dholavira is one of the five largest Harappan sites. The city featured advanced urban planning, with divisions into a citadel, middle town, and lower town, showcasing sophisticated infrastructure.
Dholavira had an impressive water conservation system with reservoirs, stepwells, and drainage structures crucial for survival in the arid region. A unique discovery at the site is a large Harappan script inscription on a wooden board, hinting at an early writing system. Artifacts such as seals, beads, and pottery indicate trade links with Mesopotamia and other Harappan cities. Recognising its historical and architectural significance, UNESCO designated Dholavira a World Heritage Site in 2021.
Another unforgettable experience was the breathtaking journey along the “Road to Heaven” near Kala Dungar (Black Hill), the highest point in Kutch. This scenic route offers a mesmerising view of the Great Rann of Kutch, where the vast white salt desert stretches to the horizon. The surreal landscape, especially during sunrise and sunset, creates an illusion of a road leading straight into the heavens. The steep and curvy ascent to Kala Dungar adds to the adventure, passing military outposts and strategic locations managed by the Border Security Force (BSF). At the summit stands a 400-year-old temple dedicated to Lord Dattatreya. Along the way, we witnessed the intriguing Magnetic Hill Effect, an optical illusion where vehicles appear to roll uphill on their own.
For our stay, we experienced life in traditional bhungas—circular mud houses known for their earthquake-resistant design and cultural significance. Their thick mud walls regulate indoor temperatures, keeping interiors cool in summer and warm in winter. Adorned with intricate mirror work, mud-relief art, and vibrant paintings, bhungas reflect the rich heritage of the Kutchi people, including the Rabaris, Meghwals, and Maldharis. During the Rann Utsav, many visitors opt to stay in bhunga resorts, which blend traditional aesthetics with modern comforts.
We had the privilege of attending the Rann Utsav, a vibrant cultural festival held annually in the Great Rann of Kutch. The festival, set against the stunning white desert, showcases Gujarat’s rich heritage, art, music, and traditions. The main festival site in Dhordo offers visitors an enchanting experience, especially under the full moon when the salt flats reflect the sky’s glow. The festival features traditional folk performances, storytelling, and an array of Kutchi handicrafts, including embroidery, bandhani textiles, leatherwork, and the exquisite Rogan art. Adventure enthusiasts can enjoy activities such as hot-air ballooning, camel rides, paramotoring, and desert safaris. The festival also provides an opportunity to savor authentic Kutchi cuisine, including Dabeli, Bajra Rotla, and Kutchi Kadhi.
One of the most fascinating crafts we explored was Rogan Art, a rare textile painting technique practiced by the Khatri community of Nirona village. This 400-year-old art form involves intricate, colorful designs made using a castor oil-based paint. The process includes boiling castor oil for hours, mixing it with natural pigments, and using a metal stylus to create freehand patterns. The designs, often featuring floral, tree of life, geometric, and peacock motifs, are typically transferred onto fabric through a symmetrical folding technique. Traditionally used for bridal attire and home décor, Rogan Art was revived by the Khatri family, who even presented their work to global leaders such as Barack Obama. We were fortunate to meet Padma Shri awardee, Abdul Gafoor Khatri, who has played a pivotal role in preserving and promoting this dying art form.
The experience of walking across the vast salt desert & feeling the crunch of salt beneath our feet, dressing in vibrant traditional attire, witnessing the mesmerising rise and set of the sun and moon, enjoying thrilling camel rides, savoring the delicious rotlas prepared by hospitable villagers, and gathering around campfires for music, dance, and camaraderie, rekindling past connection; every moment of our journey was truly unforgettable. The memories we created in Kutch will forever be etched in our hearts.
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🌍 A mesmerising journey through #Kutch, from the white desert to ancient #Dholavira, vibrant #RannUtsav & exquisite #RoganArt. 🏜️ Unforgettable landscapes, rich heritage & cultural wonders await! 🎶 Click the link to explore more! 🔗 #TheIndianSunhttps://t.co/0nKrn3vuav
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