If you’ve visited Kerala in South India, you’d recognise the familiar sight of toddy shops, which are an essential part of the local culture. Here, the smell of fresh palm sap mixes with the sounds of people chatting and glasses clinking. Not to forget the good food that adds to the charm.
For the uninitiated, toddy in Kerala is a unique mildly alcoholic brew made from the fermented sweet sap of the coconut tree. It’s a staple in the local culture, enjoyed by many.
Inspired by his Keralan heritage and experiences in India, Chef Mischa Tropp brings this rich culture to life at the Toddy Shop by Marthanden Hotel in Fitzroy.
The Toddy Shop’s earnest intention is evident in how it tries to perfectly create the unpretentious atmosphere of a toddy or kallu shop in Kerala. From the assortment of chip packets and drinks stacked on the walls to the pumpkin on display, along with the Indian disco music playing in the background, every detail reflects a genuine toddy shop experience.
Tropp, who began his decade-long career cooking Kerala food with pop-ups and at the Rochester Hotel, opened the Toddy Shop last December. His aim was to introduce “simple Indian home-style food” rather than fancy, modern Indian cuisine.
“It has come full circle to put this food again,” he says. “This is traditional home-style food. We don’t see a lot of that style of food in Australia. For me, this is about how I take a bit of India in the way it feels the food, environment, and transplant it here.”
The menu isn’t exhaustive, but it offers a delightful selection of dishes from Kerala. Highlights include the dry roasted pork fry with black pepper and fennel, perfect for pairing with the variety of drinks on offer.
The Okra Theeyal features burnt coconut and tamarind gravy, while the Chicken Varuthara is made with roasted coconut and shallots. For a refreshing option, try the Pineapple Pulissery with curd, ground coconut, and curry leaves. Seafood lovers will enjoy the Prawn Moilee, and the egg roast is a classic Keralan dish worth trying.
Tropp has deliberately left out entrees and desserts from the menu to create a casual, quick-service venue where diners can enjoy a satisfying meal at an affordable price.
The drink list is definitely a winner, offering a wide range of options from Toddy’s Colada to Bengali Martini to Kovalam Spritz. You can even try the local Two Rupees Lager from the beer section. But don’t miss a sip of the toddy, the drink that completes the experience.
Rest assured, this 20-seat diner stays true to a nostalgic ideal.
[Rear 191A Smith Street, Fitzroy (enter via Charles Street), marthandenhotel.com]
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