Kimono: NGV to exhibit reveals 30+ new Japanese treasures

Opening 4 June 2025 at NGV International, Kimono is a landmark exhibition curated by the National Gallery of Victoria, showcasing the timeless elegance and global influence of Japan’s most iconic garment. Featuring more than 70 exquisite kimono spanning from the Edo period to the present day, the exhibition celebrates centuries of craftsmanship, cultural exchange, and contemporary reinvention.

Drawn primarily from the NGV Collection, Kimono presents over 30 newly acquired and never-before-seen kimono, alongside more than 150 complementary works including paintings, posters, woodblock prints, magazines, and decorative arts. The garments—many hand-crafted from the world’s finest silk and adorned with intricate gold and silver embroidery—feature classic motifs of nature, seasons, and symbolism, all displayed within a striking exhibition design that enhances their refined beauty and understated luxury.

The exhibition spotlights both traditional artisans and contemporary designers who are reimagining the kimono for the 21st century. Contemporary Japanese designers such as Hiroko Takahashi, Jotaro Saito, Rumi Rock, Robe Japonica and others are featured alongside international fashion luminaries including Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, John Galliano, Comme des Garçons, and Alexander McQueen.

A highlight of the exhibition is the Australian premiere of new works by acclaimed Kyoto-based designer Jotaro Saito, known for his bold, modern interpretations of traditional kimono. For Kimono, Saito will present garments from his latest collection Dark Romantic, featuring hand-painted and hand-stencilled pieces created using the traditional yuzen dyeing technique.

Seven newly acquired Edo-period kimono made of silk and ramie will be displayed, each decorated with natural motifs such as wisteria, maple leaves, and falling snow. These rare garments offer a glimpse into the refined style of Japan’s 18th- and 19th-century samurai and merchant classes. A standout piece is a red wedding kimono embellished with bamboo, pine, and cranes, created using the intricate Japanese shibori tie-dye technique.

Adding a local connection, the exhibition includes a white wedding kimono gifted by the Melbourne-based family of the late Funiko Saito, who once served as the official embroiderer to the Japanese Imperial Family.

Other highlights include two vibrant ensembles by the late Issey Miyake, created in collaboration with the estate of graphic designer Ikko Tanaka, featuring Tanaka’s bold designs on Miyake’s signature pleated fabrics. Works by Yohji Yamamoto explore the intersection of traditional Japanese dress and Western tailoring.

The exhibition also examines the influence of the kimono on Western fashion, particularly during the Japonisme movement of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. On display are early 20th-century garments by Liberty & Co, Callot Soeurs, and Paul Poiret, as well as later designs by John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Givenchy, Zambesi, Rudi Gernreich, and Australia’s own Akira Isogawa.

Kimono also captures the current revival of kimono in Japan through playful and avant-garde works by contemporary labels including Robe Japonica, Modern Antenna, Tamao Shigemune, and Y&SONS. These designs reflect the latest trends in Harajuku street fashion, gothic, kawaii, and new dandyism.

Rounding out the exhibition are three dramatic costumes from traditional Japanese noh and kyogen theatre, crafted from rich brocade with shimmering gold and silver thread. Displayed alongside masks, fabric swatches, and lacquerware, these theatrical pieces offer a rare window into Japan’s classical performing arts.

Kimono is on display at the NGV from 4 June – 5 October 2025

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