The Partition of India in 1947 was the most tragic and defining event in the history of the subcontinent. It also marked the largest migration in human history. The Partition led to the creation of two independent nations, India and Pakistan, but also resulted in immense suffering, with up to 20 million people displaced and widespread loss of life and property.
Despite the scale of this immense human tragedy, for many decades, there was a notable absence of dedicated memorials or museums to remember and honour the millions affected by this historical upheaval.
The Partition Museum in Amritsar, situated at the Town Hall, came into existence in October 2016 to fill this significant void and to share the stories of people who lived through the horror of those violent times.
Created by the Arts and Cultural Heritage Trust (TAACHT), the museum serves as a poignant reminder of the human cost of the Partition and the strength and resilience of those who endured the trauma of displacement and loss.
The museum’s collection includes a rich array of papers, personal testimonials, documents, objects, and artefacts donated by individuals, many of which date back to the time of Partition. Through personal testimonies, artefacts, photographs, documents, art installations, and oral histories, the museum tells the story of Partition from the perspectives of those who experienced it, ensuring that their voices and experiences are not forgotten.
The Partition Museum in Amritsar offers a deeply immersive and personal experience, bringing to life the harrowing yet resilient stories of those affected by the Partition of 1947.
The museum also dedicates areas to specific families and notable individuals who were impacted by the Partition and migrated to the Indian side of the border. These include stories of prominent figures such as Milkha Singh, the legendary athlete, and Mahashay Dharampal Gulati, the founder of MDH Masala. These personal narratives offer a glimpse into the lives of those who not only survived the Partition but went on to leave a lasting legacy.
Visitors to the museum can engage with history in varied ways. They can watch historical recordings, listen to evocative soundscapes in each gallery, read letters from refugees, and read official documents, gaining a personal look at people’s material memory. These varied experiences make the museum a comprehensive and deeply moving tribute to the enduring human spirit in the face of unimaginable adversity.
Photography is not allowed inside the museum (except in one area). As you navigate through the oral histories, people’s material memories, documents, and photographs displayed in the museum, the haunting sound of a train passing by and the installation of an anonymous railway platform stay with you for a long time. This nameless platform is in memory of all those innocent ordinary people who lost their lives in train attacks and all those who survived this intensely traumatic train journey without food or water as they fled from the land that was their home. You come closer to stories of loss, grief, betrayal, and also the story of hope and the indomitable human spirit to rebuild lives from the ashes.
Here are some glimpses of life and loss during the Partition as seen through all that is displayed in the museum.
THE LINE THAT DIVIDES: Sir Cyril Radcliffe had six weeks to draw the borderline. He was commissioned to equitably divide 450,000 sq km of territory with 88 million people. Radcliffe had never visited India before and had no idea of its people, landscape, and culture. He arrived on 8th July and completed his report by 12th August. In an interview later, he said, “I had no alternative, the time at my disposal was so short that I couldn’t do a better job. Given the same period, I would do the same thing. However, if I had two or three years, I would do it differently.”
Following the mindless violence the Partition saw, Radcliffe did not take any money for the work he had done. He said, “The people who died, their blood was on my head.”
YOU CAN’T READ LOSS: Loss is personal, yet in many ways, it’s universal too. Sudershana Kumari and her parents had to flee their home one evening while they were preparing their dinner. They just jumped from one terrace to another in desperation and left everything that was once theirs. Sudershana was eight years old then. Decades later, she recounts that horrifying night as tears flow continuously from her eyes. In an extraordinary gesture, she has donated a ‘Kari Glass’ (among other things) to the museum. She explains, “When you respect a guest, you offer them milk or lassi in a Kari glass. As the polish never goes off, it was considered precious.” Her sense of belonging lies in that glass.
Major Jagat Singh’s family and their village did not migrate initially because they assumed Lahore would be with India. When their kafila finally moved, they were attacked. Singh had just crossed the Ravi river when he looked back to see his father and many others killed on the other side of the river.
(Radcliffe had said, “By population, property, and standards, Lahore was originally in India. But then there was no city left for Pakistan. So I took Lahore from India and gave it to Pakistan. From East Pakistan, Calcutta was coming to India.”)
In Thoha Khalsa village in Rawalpindi, women jumped into the well to protect their honour.
In the museum, when you see the well (an installation) under the subtle light, you feel a knife cutting through your heart.
THE POOR ALWAYS SUFFERS THE MOST: Many with limited or no means travelled by kafila, walking miles and miles in the scorching heat and the torrential rains of heavy monsoon. They were particularly vulnerable to attack by mobs. They walked without shelter, sanitation, food, and water. Thousands, especially the elderly, the sick, and the children, perished from exhaustion and starvation. They began the journey but never made it to their final destination.
WHO CARES ABOUT DALITS? Not much has been documented about the Dalits and Partition. Dalits could not stay in the main refugee camps and were also cut off from getting access to clothing and food rations. Rameshwari Nehru, the head of the committee to rehabilitate Dalits, notes that the land compensation policies excluded Dalits as they were viewed as tillers, not owners.
HOW DO YOU DIVIDE CULTURE? The tragic consequences of the Partition were felt in music, literature, cricket, and heritage. In an absurd matter-of-fact effort at equity, ancient necklaces belonging to Mohenjodaro were broken, and an equal number of beads were given to India and Pakistan. Even giving either country one extra bead had to be discussed and formally documented.
TOWARDS HOPE, LOVE, AND LIGHT
One of the most poignant spaces in the museum is the Gallery of Hope. This area stands out as a favourite among visitors for its interactive and symbolic expression of peace and reconciliation. In this gallery, visitors are invited to write messages of love and peace on paper cut into the shape of leaves. These leaves are then hung from a barbed-wire tree, transforming a symbol of pain into one of hope and unity. History can be our greatest teacher if we are willing to learn from it.
Facing the Hope Tree, there is a board with the following lines of Sufi poet Bulleh Shah: “The entire universe is contained in a single point. God is found not by those who follow rites and rituals but by those whose hearts are pure.”
From the souvenir counter, one can buy books on Partition and tote bags.
Trivia:
- The Museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday, 10 am-6 pm.
- Monday Closed
- Indian Nationals: INR 10/- Foreign Nationals: INR 250/- Children (5 and below): Free Partition Survivors: Free
How to get there:
- Amritsar is well-connected by air and rail with India’s major metros.
- Town Hall, Amritsar, is located at the start of the Heritage Plaza, a 5-7 minute walk from the Golden Temple and Jallianwala Bagh.
- Distance from Sri Guru Ram Dass Jee International Airport: 13 kms. Time: 25 – 30 minute drive. Distance from Amritsar Junction Railway Station: 2.1 kms. Time: 10 – 15 minute drive. Distance from Madan Lal Dhingra Inter-State Bus Terminal: 950 metres. Time: 7 – 10 minute drive.
- Cabs and auto-rickshaws are easily available to commute around Amritsar.
- Paid parking is available at the Golden Temple parking lot (2-minute walk to the Partition Museum, Town Hall).
Deepika Sahu has been a journalist for 29 years and she has worked with some of India’s leading media houses. Right now, she is independently engaged in content creation and curation. Twitter: @menondeepika; Instagram: @moodydeepika; Facebook: Deepika Sahu
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The @PartitionMuseum in #Amritsar honours the 1947 #Partition's victims & survivors with powerful artefacts, personal stories & immersive exhibits. A must-visit to witness resilience, loss & hope. 🌍📜🕊️💔🎟️ #TheIndianSun @menondeepikahttps://t.co/0TJDf0ivkb
— The Indian Sun (@The_Indian_Sun) August 14, 2024
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